乌克兰切尔诺夫策(庄婷)

​切尔诺夫策(Chernivtsi )是乌克兰西南部切尔诺夫策州的首府,位于普鲁特河上游,属于布科维纳北部地区。切尔诺夫策在历史上曾是犹太人聚居地,有“小维也纳”之称,现在与利沃夫并列为乌克兰西部的文化中心,也是乌克兰重要的教育与文化中心。

因曾是奥匈帝国的一部份,切尔诺夫策保存有很多奥匈帝国时代的文化遗产,主要建筑风格有维也纳分离派和新古典主义、巴洛克式、晚期哥特式等多种风格的建筑,此外还有传统摩尔达维亚式和匈牙利式建筑、拜占庭式建筑以及立体主义建筑。切尔诺夫策的主要建筑景点有切尔诺夫策大剧院、切尔诺夫策大学、地区美术馆、切尔诺夫策市政厅、切尔诺夫策文化宫等。

Like many cities in the west of Ukraine, energetic Chernivtsi displays the hallmarks of a more elegant past, most obviously in the shape of its star attraction, the phantasmagorical university building. Shabby, leafy and slightly chaotic, this Ukrainian city has a somewhat non-Slavic flavour, possibly the residue of centuries of Romanian/Moldovan influence. Renovators are still busy with the stucco and whitewash in the city center, and some of the old Austro-Hungarian tenements are looking pretty dapper, but in general Chernivtsi remains a slightly ramshackle place with a local student population keeping things lively.

Just over six centuries old, Chernivtsi was once the chief city of Bukovyna (Beech Tree Land) in old Moldavia (now Moldova). It belonged to the Habsburg Empire in the 19th century, when much of the city's ornate architecture was built, and after WWI was temporarily drawn into Romania. Today the city remains the 'capital' of the unofficial Bukovyna region.

Chernivtsi, like every city in the region, has a long and complicated history. A fortress existed here before the 13th century, but was destroyed by Mongol invasion, later the settlement was part of Poland, Moldavia and Austria-Hungary (Chernivtsi was the capital of one of the regions - Bukovyna, this was the time of greatest development). In 20th century Chernivtsi belonged to Austro-Hungarian Empire, Kingdom of Romania, USSR and, since 1991, independent Ukraine.

The city was always very multinational, with the characteristic groups being Jews, Ukrainians, Romanians, Germans, Poles, and Roma, among others. In 1930, Jews were 27% of the population; today, it's 1.2%. During WWII Chernivtsi was captured by both sides. During the rule of Romanian military dictator Ion Antonescu, who was an Axis member and who cooperated with the Nazis, around 50,000 Bukovinian Jews were put in the local Ghetto and later moved to concentration camps. Romanian city mayor Traian Popovici and army officers were able to save 20,000 Chernivtsi Jews.

The old town is mainly of Baroque style. Most of Chernivtsi's attractions are located within the historical centre. Some of the centre is a pedestrian zone.

Main attractions:

1. Main Square

2. The town hall

3. Museum of Arts

4. Taras Shevchenko monument

5. The old post office

6. Chernivtsi National University: The complex built in 19th century in historicist style used to be the palace of the Governor of Bukovyna (in 2011 the residence was inscribed in UNESCO World Heritage List). University buildings are often called 'dreaming spires', but Chernivtsi's is more like an acid trip. This fantastic, Unesco-listed red-brick ensemble, with colored tiles decorating its pseudo-Byzantine, pseudo-Moorish and pseudo-Hanseatic wings, is the last thing you'd expect here. The architect responsible was Czech Josef Hlavka, who was also behind Chernivtsi's Former Armenian Cathedral, as well as large chunks of Vienna. He completed the university in 1882 for the Metropolitans (Orthodox Church leaders) of Bukovyna as their official residence. The Soviets moved the university here.

7. German House

8. Theatre Square: Set on the exquisitely central European pl Teatralna, Chernivtsi's main drama and music theatre is a beautiful art nouveau confection that wouldn't look out of place in Prague or Paris.

9. Saint Nikolay Orthodox Church, with twisted towers

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