告别肮脏秘密，实习可持续发展
Innovative fashion designers are turning to such things as horseradish and nettles to make sustainable clothing and accessories to the delight of a growing number of buyers.
创新的时装设计师们正转向诸如山葵和荨麻这样的东西来制作可持续的服装和配饰，以取悦越来越多的买家。
While more consumers are paying closer attention to how the production of goods impacts the environment, old habits die hard.
尽管有越来越多的消费者更加关注产品的生产对环境的影响时，旧习仍然难改。
A buy-and-toss mentality persists despite a boost from celebrities helping to drive the upcycle and vintage movements.
尽管名人推动了升级改造和复古风潮，但“买了就扔”的心态依然存在。
Actress Maggie Q, who created an activewear line from recycled fabrics, is among activists who see plenty of room for improvement.
女演员李美琪用回收面料设计了一个运动服系列，她和其他活动人士一样认为还有很多改进的空间。
She says she feels "sick about fast fashion.''
她说她对高端时尚感到恶心。
"You hear people say, 'Well, it was cheap and you need to wear it once, you throw it away,'" she said.
“你总听到人们说，'这么便宜，你穿一次就扔掉就可以了，’”她说道。
The British design duo behind Vin + Omi, a brand worn by Michelle Obama, Beyonce and Lady Gaga, is forever on the hunt for creative solutions to sustainability.
米歇尔·奥巴马、碧昂丝和嘎嘎小姐所穿的Vin + Omi品牌背后的英国设计二人组，一直在为可持续发展寻找创造性的解决方案。
They sourced latex from Malaysia, for example.
例如，他们从马来西亚采购乳胶。
However, they found the conditions for plantation workers appalling and bought the operation.
然而，他们发现种植园工人的条件令人震惊，于是便买下了乳胶种植园。
At their studios in the Cotswolds, in the heart of the English countryside, they grow a range of crops and plants for textile development, including chestnuts and horseradish.
在位于英国乡村中心的科茨沃尔德的工作室里，他们种植了一系列用于纺织发展的农作物和植物，包括栗子和山葵。
Their latest collection features garments made from nettles, alpaca fleece and recycled plastic from paint tubes.
他们最新的系列包括用荨麻、羊驼毛和油漆管回收塑料制成的衣服。
English designer Zoe Corsellis keeps the carbon footprint of her garments low by manufacturing them in London, with fabrics sourced in the U.K. and Germany.
英国设计师佐伊·考斯利斯通过在伦敦生产服装，并在英国和德国采购面料，来降低服装的碳足迹。
She makes them from wood pulp, sea waste and peace silk, considered more humane to silk worms than traditional production processes.
她用木浆、海废弃物和蚕丝来制作，蚕丝被认为比传统的生产工艺更人性化。
A wood pulp gown feels like jersey to the touch.
一件木浆质地的礼服摸起来就像一件针织衫。
Belgian designer Sebastiaan de Neubourg is recycling plastic bottles, car dashboards and refrigerators for sunglasses for his brand, W.R.YUMA.
比利时设计师塞巴斯蒂安·德·诺布尔正在回收塑料瓶、汽车仪表盘和冰箱，为他的品牌W.R.YUMA制作太阳镜。
Plastic waste is collected and shredded to make 3D printer filament.
塑料垃圾可以并切碎制成3D打印机纤维。
Transparent frames are made from soda bottles, white ones from refrigerators and black ones from car dashboards.
透明的框架由汽水瓶、冰箱的白色框架和汽车仪表盘的黑色框架组成。
“Waste, I believe, is design failure," he said.
“我认为，浪费是设计上的失败，”他说。
Fee Gilfeather, sustainability expert at the nonprofit Oxfam, said there's hope on a larger scale.
非营利组织牛津饥荒救济委员会的可持续发展专家菲·吉尔费瑟表示，有希望实现更大规模的改变。
"The textile industry is getting close to working out how to do fiber-to-fiber recycling," she said.
她说:“纺织业正在研究如何实现纤维到纤维的循环利用。
“So what that means is that when you take a garment that's no longer needed, you can break it down into the fibers and turn that back into a raw material to make clothing.”
“所以这意味着，当你拿起一件不再需要的衣服时，你可以把它分解成纤维，然后把它变成制作衣服的原材料。”
More celebrities are also playing a role, with some turning to vintage.
越来越多的名人也在其中发挥了作用，其中一些人转向了复古风格。
Amal Clooney, the Duchess of Sussex, Meghan Markle and Kim Kardashian West have been wearing more vintage pieces and re-wearing outfits, something unheard of among many celebrities.
阿迈勒·克鲁尼、苏塞克斯公爵夫人、梅根·马克尔和金·卡戴珊·韦斯特都穿了很多复古的衣服，还重复穿着了很多衣服，这在很多名人中是闻所未闻的。
Billie Eilish recently wore a custom upcycled outfit from Burberry to the American Music Awards.
比利·艾力什最近在全美音乐奖上穿了一件巴宝莉定制的升级版服装。
“I'm trying to like waste less resources,” the teenage singer said.
“我尽量少浪费资源，”这位青少年歌手说道。
Singer Paloma Faith is an old hand at vintage.
歌手帕洛玛·费斯是玩复古的老手。
“I've been wearing - and obsessive about - vintage clothing for my whole life and I feel like it's really an important thing to recycle and re-use, not just because the ideas in my view were better from the past, but also because we can't just keep contributing to the landfill, and we have to take a bit or more responsibility,” she said.
“我一辈子都在穿—并痴迷于—复古服装。我认为回收再利用是非常重要的，不仅仅因为它们来自过去，而且因为我们应该不断为减少垃圾而努力，我们应该尽到自己的责任，”她说道。
For more than a decade, designer Stella McCartney has been in the sustainability fight.
十多年来，设计师斯特拉·麦卡特尼一直在为可持续发展而奋斗。
Her latest collection was her most sustainable yet, using organic cotton, recycled polyester, sustainable viscose and traceable wool.
她最新的系列是她迄今为止最可持续的系列，使用了有机棉、回收聚酯、可持续粘胶和可追踪的羊毛。
“It's really important to me that you shouldn't notice that what I do is more ethical than other houses,” she said.
“你不应该以为我所做的事情比其他公司更符合道德，这对我来说真的很重要，”她说。
"You should just love it and want it and then the desirability means it comes into your life, and it means that other businesses have to change.”
“你应该爱它、想要它，这种渴望意味着它会进入你的生活，意味着其他行业必须改变。”
Brands that have heavily used fur in the past have reconsidered.
过去大量使用皮草的品牌已经开始重新考虑。
Burberry, Gucci and Versace are among high-end houses opting for faux fur.
博柏利、古驰和范思哲等高端品牌都开始选择人造皮草。
Many others, including Chanel and Victoria Beckham, will no longer use exotic animal skins.
包括香奈儿和维多利亚·贝克汉姆在内的许多品牌将不再使用异国动物皮。
Burberry destroyed millions of dollars' worth of clothes and accessories every year to prevent the products being sold cheaply.
巴宝莉每年都会销毁价值数百万美元的衣服和配饰，以防止这些产品被廉价出售。
It stopped in 2018, but the practice is still widespread in the industry.
这种做法在2018年停止了，但在业内仍很普遍。
Greenpeace described it as the "dirty secret" of fashion.
绿色和平组织称这是时尚界的“肮脏秘密”。
The rate of change needs to quicken, Gilfeather said, cautioning that carbon emissions from the textile industry are forecast to increase by 60% come 2050.
吉尔费瑟说，变化的速度需要加快，并警告说，到2050年，纺织行业的碳排放预计将增加60%。
Fast-fashion industry leaders including Inditex, which owns Zara and H&M, have launched clothing take-back schemes aimed at recycling old items.
旗下包括了Zara和H&M的Inditex在内的快时尚行业领袖已经推出了服装回收计划，旨在回收旧衣服。
But recycling, upcycling and a zero waste approach is a relatively small sideline in the global industry.
但回收、升级和零废物的方法在全球工业中只是一个相对较小的副业。
"There are ways which large companies are helping consumers to recycle, but we know that there's a long way for others to go and to really sort of properly make a difference," Gilfeather said.
吉尔费瑟说:“大公司有很多方法来帮助消费者回收垃圾，但是我们知道，要真正发挥作用，其他公司还有很长的路要走。”
Vin, from Vin + Omi, said consumers must take more responsibility.
来自Vin + Omi的Vin表示，消费者也必须承担更多的责任。
“What we should be doing is aiming for quality, aiming for origins of textiles, aiming for a real sort of look at each individual fashion company and saying, `'They're a viable business. I will buy from them.'"
“我们应该做的是关注质量，关注纺织品的原产地，关注每一家独立的时尚公司，然后再说，'他们是一个可靠的公司。我要向他们买。’”
林语堂|《人生自然的节奏》
问题
文中提到的时尚界的肮脏秘密指的是什么？
留言回复正确答案，前十名朋友可以获得红包奖励哦，赶快来试试吧！
感谢关注
跟amber一起看世界