一路向西~波斯日記，09.半個世界 / 开普饭

太陽曆1391年11月18日

公曆2013年02月06日/週三

本次旅行抵達的十處伊朗世界遺產（綠色為本篇所描述）
    01，波斯波利斯（文，1979年）
    02，伊斯法罕的伊玛目广场（文，1979年）
    03，塔赫特苏莱曼（文，2003年）
    04，帕萨尔加德（文，2004年）
    05，苏丹尼耶（文，2005年）
    06，贝希斯敦（文，2006年）
    07，伊朗的亚美尼亚隐修院集合体（文，2008年）：圣达陡隐修院、圣斯德望隐修院、佐佐尔小堂
    08，大不里士历史巴扎建筑群（文，2010年）
    09，波斯花园（文，2011年）
    10，伊斯法罕的聚礼清真寺（文，2012年）

1598年，當薩菲王朝的阿巴斯大帝遷都伊斯法罕時，在全世界範圍徵召能工巧匠，至今留有大量的清真寺和王宮等。因此很久以來就流傳著：來了伊斯法罕等於看到了半個世界的美譽。

今天是在伊斯法罕的第二天，上午先去世界遺產之波斯花園四十柱宮參觀，下午去亞美尼亞人聚集區Jolfa參觀。

所謂四十柱宮，實際上僅有二十根柱子，這是我數過的。加上水中的倒影，故而稱之為四十柱宮。

池邊的石雕，估計原來是噴水裝置的一部分

四十柱宮的木製柱子

入口前的玻璃穹頂

宮內有六幅巨大的壁畫以及若干小的壁畫，三幅描繪著薩菲王朝的君主們如何戰勝敵人，另外三幅則是如何幫助朋友

Karnal battle between Nader Shah Afshar and Mohammad Shah Gurkani, king of India

The battle took place in Karnal region near Delhi in 1735 A.D and led to the victory of Nader army and the conquest of Delhi.
After the demise of the Safavid dynasty, a version of the battle of Nader Shah Afshar in Karnal region which is placed on one of the middle walls of the main hall was restored by Aqa Sadegh the painter. He was a famous Qajar painter also known as Naqqash-Bashi who changed the picture slightly based on the so called coffee house style in 1216. During the fourth year of Nader rule, Karnal battle took place in Karnal region near Delhi, capital of India between the armies of Iran and India. It ended in the victory of the Iranian army and the occupation of Delhi. In the picture, Nader Shah Afshar is shown horse riding with a battle-ax in his hands and Naserolddeen Mohammad Shah-Gurkani, king of India is depicted on an elephant.

The battle of Chaldoran between Shah Esmaeel Safavid the first and Sultan Salim the Ottoman ruler ended in defeat for the Safavids because of the order of Shah Esmaeel Safavid not to use firearms.
The painting depicts the Persian army at the time of the war in 1518 A.D in which most men were only armed with such weapons as swords and bows and arrows. On the contrary, the innumerable Ottoman army was equipped with firearms and artillery. This condition has been vividly shown in the picture. The champion of the battle scene was of course Shah Esmaeel who is depicted riding a white horse wearing the Qezelbash crown and fighting with sword. In the background, Sultan salim can aslo be seen.Apparently, the Chaldoran Battle painting was drawn by Sadegh Naqqash Bashi in 1823 A.D The painting opposite it which shows the conquest of Indin by the Persian army under the command of Nader Shah Afshar has been restored by the same painter.

This shows the battle between Shah Esmaeel Safavid th first and Sheibak Khan the Uzbek who was the ruler of Taherabad region in Merv, Uzbekistan.
The battle ended in defeat for Uzbeks in the year 1511 A.D The last big picture pertaining to the Safavid era shows the battle between Shah Esmaeel Safavid the first and Sheibak Khan the Uzbek in Taherabad region of Merv. The battle ended in a decisive victory for Safavids over Uzbeks and the death of Sheibak Khan in the year 1511 AD.
According to oral narrations, te picture was introduced as the scene of battle between Shah Abbas Safavid the first against the Uzbeks but the face of the Safavid king depicted battling in the picture is exactly similar to that of Shah Esmaeel in Chaldran battle. Almost certainly, during the drawing of Chaldran battle, the face of Shah Esmaeel in the original picture has been used as a model for the next supplementary one.

Additionally, the face of Sheibak Khah here is very similar to the one belonging to Mohammad Shahbakht Khah the famous Uzbek in a work by Behzad the painter. Also Dieulafoy, an European traneler who had spent some time in Esfahan in 1874 A.D introduces the picture as the scene of the battle between Shah Esmaeel and Tartars.