Lucy说|察其言，观其行，Chanel的老佛爷，究竟是怎样一个人？
有句话说世界上有两种人不能得罪：一种是减肥成功的、另一种是戒烟成功的。因为这两种人都是疯子，什么事都能干出来，卡尔·拉格菲尔德无疑就是这样的人。
他曾经亲口说过，喜欢报复——“Forgiveness is too easy. I can forget by indifference, but not forgive. I prefer revenge.”（宽恕太容易了。我可以冷漠的忘记。但不原谅。我更喜欢报复。）。更恐怖的是，他能为穿进一套衣服而决绝减肥，耗时1年减重42公斤，那时，他已64岁。而且，从此精瘦，保持21年直到85岁去世。
谈及减肥，卡尔这样说：“为了穿上Hedi Slimane西装，我减了200磅（约181斤）。“”好吧，这是Dior的Hedi Slimane新系列，你需要瘦才能穿上它。它说：'你想要穿吗？瘦下来。'所以我甩掉了肥肉。我减掉了88磅（约80斤），从未再胖过。“想象一下，能短时间内，有毅力减掉那么一大坨肥肉的人，得多么恐怖！
卡尔说他从不接触糖，奶酪，面包，并且直言自己超越了诱惑，没有任何弱点。我想，这既与q他有德国人严谨自律的基因，也有从小被母亲苛刻的管教所致的自律相关吧。
在还是孩子时，母亲就要求卡尔睡觉前，也打扮的一丝不苟，预防一旦半夜醒来生病需要出门，也可光鲜。母亲还挑剔他的手长得不好看。这或许成就了我们所熟知的卡尔：成年后一直戴着手套、上床睡觉前像约会一样精心打扮、始终保持着无懈可击的形象，并掌管着世界上最优雅的品牌。不过，卡尔对母亲似乎并无太多怨恨，反而说他唯一相信的爱，就是母亲对孩子的爱。
古话说，对一个人的了解，要察其言，观其行。卡尔从入行到去世工作了64年，始终保持旺盛的激情和创造力，直到生命的最后一刻，无疑践行了他的信仰和灵魂。虽然卡尔说他才不在乎给世界上留下什么，重温那些卡尔说过的话（为了保持原汁原味，我特别保留了英文原文便于各位对照），或许也是对这位创造了历史和文明的时尚大帝的缅怀。
谈工作
'Please don't say I work hard. Nobody is forced to do this job and if they don't like it, they should do another one. If it's too much, do something else. But don't start doing it and then say, 'Aaaah, it's too much'. Because a lot of people depend on it. What we do at Chanel, thousands of people work on these things; these things are sold in hundreds and hundreds of shops all over the world. People like the big machine, and the money the big machine involves, but the effort... Then, suddenly, they become artists. They are too weak. Too fragile. Non. We have to be tough. We cannot talk about our suffering. People buy dresses to be happy, not to hear about somebody who suffered over a piece of taffeta. Me, I like to make an effort. I like nothing better than concrete reality. I'm a very down-to-earth person, but it is my job to make that earth more pleasant.'
“请不要说我努力工作。没人是被迫做这份工作的。如果不喜欢，大可换一个。如果觉得工作量太 大，也可换份工作。但千万不要边做边说，“哦，太累啦。” 因为很多人都依赖于它。我们在香奈儿所做的，成千上万的人在做的这些，这些东西销往世界各地的数百家商店……我们不能太脆弱了。不。我们必须强悍。我们不能谈论我们的痛苦。人们买衣服是为了快乐，而不是听到有人在塔夫绸上受到挫折。我，我喜欢做出努力，没什么比看到实实在在的成果更让人欢喜啦。我是一个脚踏实地的人，让我的地球更加精彩是我的工作。”
“I’m a kind of fashion nymphomaniac who never gets an orgasm.'
“我是一个永远不会达到高潮的时尚女色情狂。”
“The woman is the most perfect doll that i have dressed with delight and admiration.”
“女人是我带着喜悦和钦佩所打扮的最完美的娃娃。”
'What I do Coco would have hated. The label has an image and it's up to me to update it. I do what she never did. I had to find my mark. I had to go from what Chanel was to what it should be, could be, what it had been to something else.'
“我所做的，Coco会讨厌。品牌有一个形象，我的责任就是将其更新。我做她从未做过的事情。我必须找到自己的标记。我必须从香奈儿的过去到她应该成为、可能成为的，已经成为的，再到其它的可能。”
'Why should I stop working? If I do, I'll die and it'll all be finished. I'm lucky to work in the most perfect of conditions. I can do what I want in all kinds of areas. The expenses are not expenses. I would be stupid to stop that. Work is making a living out of being bored.'
“我为什么要停止工作？如果这样做，我会死，而且一切都会结束了。我很幸运能在极尽完美的条件下工作，可以在各种各样的领域做自己想做的事。花费不是消耗。我绝不会愚蠢的停止工作。工作就是让生活保持精彩。”
“People who do a job that claims to be creative have to be alone to recharge their batteries. You can’t live 24 hours a day in the spotlight and remain creative. For people like me, solitude is a victory.”
“那些声称是创造性的工作需要独处来充充电。你不能一天24小时生活在聚光灯下,仍有创造力。对于像我这样的人,孤独就是一种胜利。”
“I like to reinvent myself — it’s part of my job.”
“我喜欢改造自己, 这是我工作的一部分。”
谈自我
'I am like a caricature of myself, and I like that. It is like a mask. And for me the Carnival of Venice lasts all year long.'
“我就像是对自己的漫画，我喜欢这样。它就像一个面具。对我来说，威尼斯狂欢节一整年都在持续。”
'I was very much like a grown-up. I have photos of me as a child wearing a tie, and it's the same as I am today.'
“我很像一个大人。我有一张系着领带的童年照片，和我现在一样。”
'When I was 14, I wanted to smoke because my mother smoked like mad. I wanted to smoke to look grown-up. But my mother said: 'You shouldn't smoke. Your hands are not that beautiful and that shows when you smoke.'
“14岁时我想抽烟，因为我的母亲像疯了一样的吸烟。我想吸烟以看起来长大。但母亲说：'你不应该吸烟。你的手不那么漂亮，吸烟时就会显现出来。”
'I love hats, in a way, but when I was a child, I'd wear Tyrolean hats, and my mother - I was something like eight - said to me: 'You shouldn't wear hats. You look like an old dyke.' Do you say such things to children? She was quite funny, no?'
“某种程度我喜欢帽子。当我还是孩子时，大约8岁，我戴着蒂罗尔帽。而我的母亲对我说：'你不应该戴帽子。你看起来像一个破堤。'你会对孩子这么说吗？她很好笑，是不是？”
'I'm very impeccable and clean before I go to bed. It's just like right before I'm going out. When I was a child, my mother always told me that you could wake up in the middle of the night and be deathly sick, so you always have to be impeccable. I laugh about it now, but I think everyone should go to bed like they have a date at the door.'
“我上床睡觉之前是光彩照人和干净整洁的，就像马上要出门一样。当我还是孩子时，妈妈总是告诉我你半夜醒来或许生病了，所以你总要光彩照人。我现在会对此感到好笑，但我想每个人去睡觉时都应该像在门口有约会一样。”
'That's exactly what I am. As a child I wanted to be a grown-up. I wanted to know everything - not that I like to talk about it. I hate intellectual conversation with intellectuals because I only care about my opinion.'
“我就是这个样子。在童年时就想成为一个大人。我想要知道一切——不是我喜欢谈论它。我讨厌与知识分子进行脑力的对话,因为我只关心自己的意见。”
“I’m very much down to earth, just not this earth.”
我非常接地气,但不是这个地球的上。”
'When I was tired of the fashion for long, curly hair-because my hair was curly-I started to attach [the ponytail]. It was in 1976. So that means that I have had the ponytail for 35 or 36 years! Not bad, no? It's the easiest hairdo. I'm not very gifted for hairdos. I don't like gel and all those products.'
“当我厌倦了时尚的长卷发 - 因为我的头发是卷曲的 , 我开始扎马尾辫。那是在1976年。所以这意味着扎了35或36年的马尾！不错，不是吗？这是最容易造型的发型。我对发型造型不是很有天赋。我不喜欢凝胶和所有这些产品。”
'I will not talk about that. I like to read biographies, history, philosophical things like this. But it’s for my private use, and not for making people say, Oh, how clever this stupid man is. I don’t make intellectual conversation. I’m very superficial. I’m just a fashion designer. Fashion designers look at fashion magazines, right?'
我不会说我喜欢读传记、历史、哲学这样的书籍。这是我私人使用的东西, 而不是让人们会说,哦,这个愚蠢的人多么聪明。我不做高深的谈话，我很肤浅。我只是一个时装设计师。时装设计师看时尚杂志,对吧?”
“Books are a hard-bound drug with no danger of an overdose. I am the happy victim of books.”
“书是没有过量危险的装订药物。我是书的快乐受害者。”
“The only love that I really believe in is a mother’s love for her children.”
“我唯一相信的爱就是母爱“
谈名利
”Vanity is the healthiest thing in life.“
“虚荣是生命中最健康的东西。”
'You cannot fight against it. There's a price you have to pay for fame, and people who don't want to pay that price can get in trouble. I accepted the idea of celebrity because of a French expression: 'You cannot have the butter and the money for the butter.'
“这是你无法改变的，要想成名就必须付出代价。不愿意支付这个代价的人就会遇到麻烦。我明白名人的涵义，因为法国有个谚语：'你不能好事占尽。”
'If you throw money out of the window throw it out with joy. Don’t say: 'one shouldn’t do that' - that is bourgeois.'
“如果你把钱扔出窗外，请高兴地扔出去。不要说：'不应该这样做' - 这是小农思想级。”
'You know, personally, I don't even think I'm that famous. Now, Choupette really is famous. She has become the most famous cat in the world. I even get propositioned by pet food companies and things like that, but it's out of the question. I'm commercial. She's not. She's spoiled to death. Obviously.'
”你知道,就我个人而言,并不认为自己出名。现在,Choupette（卡尔的猫）真的是非常有名。她已经成为世界上最著名的猫。我甚至接到宠物食品公司代言之类的,但这是不可能的。我是商业的，她不是。她是被宠上天的，很明显。”
谈时尚
'Chic is a kind of mayonnaise, either it tastes, or it doesn't.'
“时髦是一种蛋黄酱，或者好吃或者不好吃。”
'I think tattoos are horrible. It's like living in a Pucci dress full-time. If you're young and tight, maybe it's OK, but…'
“我觉得纹身很恐怖。就像生活在Pucci礼服里一样。如果你年轻而紧致，也许没关系，但......”
“Never use the word “cheap”. Today everybody can look chic in inexpensive clothes (the rich buy them too). There is good clothing design on every level today. You can be the chicest thing in the world in a T-shirt and jeans — it’s up to you.”
“永远不要使用“便宜”这个词。现如今的每个人都可以低成本时尚(富人也购买它们)。当下每个级别都有很好的服装设计。你穿穿一件T恤和牛仔，也能成为世界上最时尚的，这取决于你自己。”
“One is never over-dressed or underdressed with a Little Black Dress.”
“穿上小黑裙永远不会打扮过分或不及”。
“A respectable appearance is sufficient to make people more interested in your soul”
“一个体面的外表足以让人们对你的灵魂更感兴趣”。
“Sweatpants are a sign of defeat. You lost control of your life so you bought some sweatpants.”
“运动裤是失败的标志。当你的人生失控了，你才会买一些运动裤穿。”
“I love classic beauty. It’s an idea of beauty with no standard.”
“我爱古典美。那是一种无法用标准来衡量的美”。
“Fashion is a language that creates itself in clothes to interpret reality.”
“时尚是一种语言,通过服装的表达来诠释现实。”
“We need houses as we need clothes, architecture stimulates fashion. It’s like hunger and thirst — you need them both.”
“我们需要房子如同我们需要衣服。结构激发时尚，就像饥饿和干渴,你都需要它们。”
“Youthfulness is about how you live not when you were born.”
“青春是如何生活而不是当你出生。”
“I am a fashion person, and fashion is not only about clothes -- it's about all kinds of change”
“我是一个时尚人。时尚不仅是关于衣服——它是关于各种各样的变化”。
“I want everyone to wear what they want and mix it in their own way. That, to me, is what is modern.”
我希望每个人都穿他们想要的东西,然后把它用自己的方式搭配。对我来说,这就是现代。”
“The secret to modeling is not being perfect. What one needs is a face that people can identify in a second. You have to be given what’s needed by nature, and what’s needed is to bring something new.”
”模特的秘诀就是不完美。人们需要的是一张瞬间就能被识别的脸。你必须要给出什么是自然禀赋，什么是推成出新所需要的。”
“elegance is a physical quality. If a woman doesn’t have it naked, she will never have it clothed.
“优雅是深入骨髓。如果一个女人骨子了没有优雅，穿上衣服也不会有。“
“Luxury is the ease of a t-shirt in a very expensive dress.”
“奢侈就是昂贵服装里一件不经意表露的T恤。”
谈节食
'I made a diet and my doctor made money that way. We sold nearly a million copies. I never touch sugar, cheese, bread... It was a very good, healthy thing, the best move in my life, I think, but it's totally effortless. I only like what I'm allowed to like. I'm beyond temptation. There is no weakness. When I see tons of food in the studio, for us and for everybody, for me it's as if this stuff was made out of plastic. The idea doesn't even enter my mind that a human being could put that into their mouth. I'm like the animals in the forest. They don't touch what they cannot eat.'
“我做了一个节食食谱，和我的医生就这样赚了钱。我们卖了将近一百万份。我从不接触糖，奶酪，面包......那是一种非常好和健康的东西，我想这是自己生命中最好的举动，但它毫不费力。我只喜欢自己获准的东西。我超越了诱惑，没有任何弱点。当在工作室看到大量为我和每个人准备的食物，对我来说这些东西就像是塑料制品。这个想法甚至让我认为不该有一个人把它们放进嘴里。我就像森林里的动物一样。它们不会碰它们不能吃的东西。“
“Dieting is the only game where you win when you lose!”
“减肥是唯一你损失就赢了的游戏。“
谈社交
'Be politically correct, but please don't bother other people with conversation about being politically correct, because that's the end of everything. You want to create boredom? Be politically correct in your conversation.'
“在政治上正确。但请不要打扰其他人谈论政治正确，因为这是一切的结束。你想创造无聊？在你的谈话中政治正确。”
'I send notes. I'm not a chambermaid whom you can ring at every moment. Today, you know, most people act like they work at a switchboard in a hotel.'
“我发送信息。我不是一个女服务员，你可以随时打电话。你知道今天，大多数人的行为就像他们是酒店的接线员一样。”
'They are this horrible thing where you are distorted. The chin is too big, the head is too small. No, this is electronic masturbation.'
“他们（自拍）是让你扭曲的可怕的事情。下巴太大了, 头太小了。不, 这是电子自慰。”
'I don’t go to movie theatres because I don’t want to be photographed by strangers. People bother me wherever I go. I like to imagine the world my way. I don’t want second-rate images of the world.'
“我不去电影院, 因为不想被陌生人拍照。无论我走到哪里都会被人打扰。我喜欢用自己的方式想象世界，不需要世界二流的影像。”
“I had an interview once with some German journalist - some horrible ugly woman. …… and she wore a yellow sweater that was kind of see-through. She had huge tits and a huge black bra, and she said to me: 'It's impolite; remove your glasses.' I said: 'Do I ask you to remove your bra?”
“曾经一些德国记者 对我进行采访,一些可怕的丑陋的女人。……她穿着一件黄色的毛衣,很透明。她有一对巨大的乳房戴着一个巨大的黑色胸罩。她对我说:“这是不礼貌的，去掉你的眼镜。”我说:“我让你脱掉你的胸罩了么?”
“Don’t sacrifice yourself too much, because if you sacrifice too much there’s nothing else you can give and nobody will care for you.”
“不要自我牺牲太多。因为如果你做太多牺牲，再没什么其他可以给给与,没人会照顾你。”
“Don't look to the approval of others for your mental stability”
“不要向别人寻求你是否精神稳定的答案。”
谈创意和其他
“Clear thinking at the wrong moment can stifle creativity.”
“清晰的思维在错误的时刻可以扼杀创造力。”
“Absurdity and anti—absurdity are the two poles of creative energy.”
“荒谬和反荒谬是创造力的两极。”
The most important piece in the house is the garbage can.'
“房子里最重要的东西是垃圾桶。”
“Music gives color to the air of the moment.”
“音乐让当下时刻的空气五彩斑斓”。
“The iPod completely changed the way people approach music.”
“iPod完全改变了人们接触音乐的方法。”
“People who say that yesterday was better than today are ultimately devaluing their own existence.”
“说昨天比今天更好的人，最终贬值的是自己的存在。”
“When people talk about the good old days, I say to people, 'It's not the days that are old, it's you that's old.' I hate the good old days. What is important is that today is good.”
“当人们谈论过去的好时光, 我说：“这不是时光老去而是你老了。“我讨厌过去的好时光。重要的是今天是好。”