TE|| The power of food
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五个标志性瞬间告诉你安东尼·波登
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The power of food
食物的力量
英文部分选自经济学人Obituary版块
The power of food
食物的力量
Anthony Bourdain hanged himself on June 8th
The chef, traveller and food-writer was 61
安东尼·波登于6月8日上吊自杀，这位美国明星厨师、旅行家以及美食作家，享年61岁。
When interviewers dug to the essence of him, Anthony Bourdain said he was a simple man. He knew his life didn’t give that impression. Much of it was set in roaring, steamy, yelling kitchens, from his first job as a dishwasher at the Dreadnaught in Provincetown, Massachusetts, through the slow climb as prep drone, line cook or sous chef at various eateries round New York, to head chef at Les Halles in Manhattan. He weathered the hazards of pots, knives and fire, the dread of scorching the demi-glace or spilling a plate, under the half-friendly hail of colleagues denouncing him as a pédé, a maricón, a puta and a motherfucker, the international language of cuisine everywhere.
当采访者试图深挖他的内心时，安东尼·波登说自己是一个简单的人。但他知道，他的一生并没有给人们留下这样的印象。他的人生很多时候都在发出怒吼声、散发着蒸汽、人们四处喊叫的厨房度过，他的第一份工作是在马萨诸塞州的普罗温斯顿一家无畏战舰餐厅内当刷碗工，后来慢慢地当上助理厨师，再后来到纽约各个地方去当上线厨师或助理厨师，到最终在曼哈顿的巴黎大堂内当上了厨师长。他经过了各种锅碗、刀叉和火焰的考验，克服了半冰沙司的困难，不再害怕摔盘子，来自世界各地的同事一边不情愿地膜拜他，一边私下里叫他同性恋、男妓、狗娘养的，这不过是厨师界最正常不过的言语了。
At Les Halles, he got through by crunching aspirins like sweets. Before that he was high all the time. From his teens he dropped acid, furiously miserable that he was too young and too suburban to have experienced the 1967 Summer of Love. In New York he moved on to heroin, just because it was the most dangerous drug in the room. He would always try anything once, but he used heroin for seven years. Should have died. He quit cold turkey, then stuffed his nose with cocaine. On drugs he was a self-destructive lout. Aggressive, depressive, almost unemployable. A mess.
在巴黎大堂，他把阿斯匹林当饭吃才挺了过来。在那之前，他一度嗑药嗑得爽翻天。少年时期，他便染上了迷幻药，年纪太小，加之见闻浅薄而错过了1967年的“夏日之爱”大规模集会，因此感到非常痛苦。在纽约，他开始用海洛因，只是因其是最危险的毒品。其他毒品他就试试新，海洛因却连续用了七年。命大没死。说戒就戒掉了，之后又迷上了可卡因。在毒品方面，他简直是个要把自己玩完的二愣子。暴力，压抑，无人雇佣，简直是一团糟。
And when all that changed in the 1990s, most definitively in 1999 when the New Yorker published a piece by him and he became a storyteller, life got no simpler. The piece was called “Don’t Eat Before Reading This”. It reminded finnicky New Yorkers that fine cookery was all about cruelty, blood, engorged livers, rot and decay. People liked it, so he wrote a book, “Kitchen Confidential”, mostly at 5am between kitchen shifts, in which all the dirty secrets of restaurants came out. Uneaten bread sent out to the next table. Leftover butter strained of cigarette ash and used for hollandaise. Long-stored fish served up on Mondays. He praised offal and foie gras, cursed fascist vegetarians. People devoured it, and out of that came TV series on three networks. He just floated the idea of going to cool places, eating great food, while they paid. And they bought it.
一切都在20世纪90年代发生了变化。在1999年的变化最大，那年纽约客发表了他的一篇文章，让他成为了一个作家，日子并没有变得简单。这篇文章名为《读完我再吃饭》。它让本就挑剔的纽约人知道了所谓精致的烹饪，都是拿残忍、血腥、生肝脏和腐烂掉的东西做的。反响很好，他就利用凌晨5点轮班的间隙写了一本叫《厨房机密》的书，披露了厨房里的肮脏秘密。前一桌没动的面包被送到了下一桌；过期黄油拉了丝沾了烟灰就用来做荷兰菜；不新鲜的鱼在周一供应。他用反讽的方式赞扬下水和鹅肝，抨击万恶的素食主义者。这本书大卖，并给安东尼带来了在三个电视网上做节目的机会。安东尼传达的想法就是去好地方吃好饭，花钱受罪不能干。这想法人们都认同。
From that point he travelled seven months a year, to almost every country on Earth. There he’d hop on a boat, a train or motorbike. He rode like a rocker with his gristly, tendony, jujitsu-honed body lean in jeans and T-shirt. He would seek out dim, hidden dives known only to locals. (Once, in deepest Tokyo, he ate the best seafood of his life in such a place. Twenty courses, a saké shot between each one). As well as eating, he would have adventures. Go sky-diving. Swim in a frozen lake. Hack through leech-filled jungle. Deliberately get lost. For he was famous now. Not as a chef, for he’d never been a really great chef, and he loathed the commercialism of the celebrity-chef crowd; he would rather write “serial wanker” in his passport. But just as his own curious, restless self. His motto was to keep moving, as far as he could. Keep moving. Try everything.
从那时起，他每年旅行七个月，几乎走遍了地球上的每一个国家。他穿着牛仔裤和t恤，像个摇滚歌手似的跳上一艘船、一辆火车或一辆摩托车，身体柔软而有张力，堪比角力运动员。他会寻找那些只有当地人才知道的苍蝇馆子。（有一次在东京巷尾他吃到了一生中最好的海鲜。上20轮菜，每隔一轮上一次清酒）。除了吃饭，他还喜欢冒险活动。跳伞，冰湖里游泳，穿行在水蛭遍布的丛林，故意迷路。他不是因为当厨师出名，因为他从来都不是一个大厨，也讨厌明星厨师们的商业主义，宁愿在护照上写上“连环作案怪咖”。本质上他只是那个好奇心重，永不停息的人。他的座右铭是，尽可能地继续前进。继续前进。尝试一切。
In all this buzzing around, however, one thing was certain. Food had power. He recognised no god, was hostile to any kind of devotion. But “the food thing” ordered his life. That first taste of a glistening, vaguely sexual, seawatery oyster on a fishing boat in France, at 12, was an initiation. It determined his future. As for that nerve-shattering kitchen chaos, it masked the mechanical precision of a submarine crew. Endurance. Achievement. Three hundred eggs Benedict, not one returned. Food imposed absolutes: the things you must do (use a sharp knife) and things you must not do (eat unopened mussels, use a garlic press). And food conferred a place in a hierarchy of the scarred. Even if you entered as a miserable puta, hard work got you respect.
然而，在马不停蹄地东奔西走中，唯有食物有魅力这点是确定不变的。他不信上帝，强烈否定任何形式的忠诚献身。不过，“食物”主宰着他的生活。12岁在法国时，他在一艘渔船上，生平第一次吃到了闪闪发光，还带着海水的诱人生蚝，这最初的味道开启了他的美食人生。这次试吃生蚝的经历奠定了他未来的方向。至于说厨房里那让人心烦意乱的混乱，却恰恰掩盖了他做为厨师具备的精准度，就像潜艇船员操纵机械要具备的：忍耐、进取。三百份班尼迪克蛋，没有一份会被退回。制作美食要绝对遵守的准侧：你一定要做的事情（用锋利的刀）和你一定不能做的事情（使用压蒜器开贻贝壳）。食物能让你在伤痕累累的等级制度中赢得一席之地。即使你入行时身份卑下，只要辛勤工作就会赢得尊重。
注释：
buzz about/around to move around quickly, expecially because you are very busy(忙得)团团转：栗子：I have been buzzing around town all day sorting out my trip.我一整天都在城里转来转去，安排旅行的事情。（摘自《牛津高阶英汉双解词典》）
The power of food was also extraordinarily simple. His aim in his first TV series, “A Cook’s Tour”, was to find the perfect meal. And he knew it wouldn’t be in some five-star restaurant. Food made him happiest if he experienced it in a purely emotional way. It might be the company, the moment, or some memory it evoked: of his mother’s grilled-cheese sandwiches, or his mother-in-law’s meatloaf. A plate of piss-poor peasant food could become something sublime, like feijoada in Brazil. His perfect meal was the street-stall pho of his favourite country, Vietnam. In “Kitchen Confidential” he warned readers to beware of restaurant dirt. He learned to relish many unwashed hands delving in one pot.
食物的魅力也简单至极。在他的第一部电视系列片“名厨吃四方”里，他旨在找到完美的食物。他明白五星级酒店里找不到这种食物。倘若他以纯粹的情感方式体验，食物会给他带来极致的快乐。这种情感或许是因为有人陪伴，此时此刻，或者是食物唤起的某些回忆：他母亲做的烤奶酪三明治，他岳母做的烘肉卷。就像巴西的黑豆饭，一盘简陋的农家饭也会变成令人赞叹的美味。越南是他最热爱的国家，他的完美食物就是在越南街头吃到的米粉。在《厨房机密》一书中，他告诫读者当心餐馆里的污垢。他学会了津津有味地和许多未洗过的手一起在一个锅里东翻西找。
Fermented shark
臭鲨鱼肉
So much globe-trotting frayed him. And it destroyed his marriages, though few knew better how food could bring people close. In his TV series perfect strangers opened up to him, telling him their stories over meals in their homes. He didn’t go in as a journalist, but as a guest, asking “What do you like to cook? What makes you happy?” In reply they would offer him food steeped in culture, history and memory. It could be vile—fermented shark in Iceland, warthog rectum in Namibia. But he would always eat it. It wasn’t worse (he said) than a Chicken McNugget. And he wanted to return the kindness. On one trip to the Middle East he wondered aloud—as similar feasts were served up by both Jews and Arabs—whether the world’s problems couldn’t all be solved if people just sat down, without fear, and ate together. For good food was made with love, just as good sex was. To share it was to love one another.
他的足迹遍布全球，但也消磨了他的精力，毁掉了他的婚姻，尽管只有小部分人能更好地体会到食物可以增进人们的感情。在他的美食系列节目中，有很多完全不认识的陌生人都对他打开心扉，分享自己家庭里和食物有关的故事。安东尼在节目中并不是以一个媒体人的身份在参与，他更像是在扮演客人的角色，向主人询问着“你想做什么食物？怎样的食物能让你感到快乐？”之类的问题，而节目中的这些扮演着主人角色的嘉宾们，作为回报，会烹饪各种充满了文化，历史和人文回忆的菜肴，食材里面甚至有来自冰岛的放坏了的鲨鱼肉，或者纳米比亚来的猪大肠，但不管怎样安东尼都会尝尝，他自己曾说，“这些食物吃起来不会比麦乐鸡块差”。每当受到款待，他总是会想报之以善意。在一次中东的旅行过程中，他发现犹太人和阿拉伯人都会用相似的宴席来款待他，他于是深切地感叹道：为什么世界上所有的人们在遭遇纷争的时候不能坐下来，坦诚的毫无顾忌的一起吃一顿饭呢？如果这样很多问题都可以解决了。好的食物都是融入了烹饪者的爱心，就像美好的性爱一样。分享食物就意味着和其他人分享这份爱心。
翻译组：
Li Xia，女， HR, 经济学人发烧友
Cece，女，消防工作者，CATTI三笔
Samantha，女，滑冰狂人，邓伦未婚妻
Lucia ，女，翻译学硕士三年制，经济学人粉丝
校核组：
Lee，男，医学英译 Timberland爱好者
Dave，大学老师，二级口译笔译，科幻文学译者
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