崔岱远，北京读书形象大使，作家、文化学者，现任中国财经出版传媒集团副编审。全民阅读积极推广者，应邀担任第十二、十三、十四届北京国际图书节主讲专家，北京大学生阅读联盟导师，中央电视台、中央人民广播电台、中国教育电视台学者嘉宾。系列作品《京味儿》《京味儿食足》《京范儿》引领人们寻着文字感受京城民间最本真的性情气韵。《吃货辞典》入选“中国影响力图书”，“中国好书”，被誉为地气的好作品。大凡进故宫参观的人，都会趴在坤宁宫的玻璃窗前向里面张望，那是清代皇帝大婚的洞房。殿内高悬双喜宫灯，龙凤喜床上绣着顽童的“百子被”依然鲜艳夺目……看着看着，有意思的事来了，怎么里面还放着三口大铁锅呀？难道皇后在这里炖肉不成？Almost all those who visit the Forbidden City would lean towards the glass windowpanes of the Palace of Earthly Tranquility and see what’s inside. The palace was used as the bridal chamber of the emperors in the Qing dynasty. Palace lanterns hang high up in the building, and the quilt embroidered with lively children on the wedding bed remains bright-colored. Then, one may notice something curious – three big iron woks! Did the queens prepare meat here?顺治十二年对坤宁宫进行改建，按满族习俗把坤宁宫西端四间改为祭神场所。进门对面设大锅三口，为祭神煮肉用。每日朝夕祭、春秋大祭、求福祭、十二月二十三日祭灶等，凡大祭之日和每月初一、十五，皇帝、皇后都亲自祭神。还真让您猜对了。按照清朝的规矩，坤宁宫是萨满教祭祀的场所，而煮肉又是其中的重要内容。不但每天早晚都有祭祀，而且每逢大祭和初一、十五，帝后都要亲自参与。祭祀后撤下的肉并不浪费，全都分给宫里的侍卫们享用，所谓“心到神知，上供人吃”。一到五更天，乾清门就会传来太监那尖尖的细嗓儿：“请大人们吃肉”，喊所有侍卫到坤宁宫门口领肉。太监端出个朱漆木盘子，上面是一块切得方方正正的肉，撒上细盐，就那么直接用手撕着吃。大臣们也有吃肉的机会，据《曝直纪略》记载：“每年坤宁宫吃肉三次，枢臣皆与。”贝勒、辅臣们吃白煮肉有个好听的名目，叫“吃晶饭”，吃法也比侍卫们文雅，是用鞘刀把肉切成薄片放在碗里，用桦树筷子夹着吃。Well, that’s right. In the Qing dynasty, the Palace was also used for Shamanist worship, and preparing boiled streaky pork was an important part of the Shamanist rituals. Sacrificial pork was offered in the morning and evening every day. More than that, the emperor and the queen would attend all major sacrificial ceremonies, and be present at rituals held on the first and fifteenth day of every month in the lunar calendar. The pork from the rituals was not wasted but shared by the guardsmen, just as the old saying goes, 'Offerings, offerings - your piety to the deities, and things nice to treat yourself.’ In those days, high-pitched voices of the eunuchs could be heard from the Gate of Heavenly Purity in the early mornings, 'gentlemen, enjoy the meat, please!’ and the guards would come and collect their portions of meat at the entrance of the Palace of Earthly Tranquility. The eunuchs took out the pork dices sprinkled with salt on the vermilion wooden plates, and the guards justtore the meat apart and ate it by hand. The ministers also had opportunities to have sacrificial pork. According to A Brief Record of Night Duties, 'pork is given to the prime minister and ministers at the Palace of Earthly Tranquility three times a year ’. The boiled streaky pork offered to the princelings and ministers was elegantly named 'crystal food’, and was eaten in a more civilized way - the meat was cut into thin slices with sheath knives, then presented in the bowls, and enjoyed with birch wood chopsticks.原本坤宁宫大锅里煮的肉是不加作料的。渐渐地，这种原始的吃法对于早已告别了游牧生活、终日锦衣玉食的王公大臣们来说实在难以下咽。也不知是谁想出个办法：用上好的酱油浸泡出一种“油纸”。白煮肉端上来，掏出这张油纸假装擦刀和碗，等于给肉蘸上了鲜美的酱油，吃起来顺口多了。Initially no spice was added when pork was boiled at the Palace of Earthly Tranquility. Gradually, this primitive way of cooking became unbearable for the aristocrats and senior officials as they had bid farewell to nomadic lives and been enjoying nice food and clothes for long. Somebody somehow came up with the idea of soaking paper in high quality soy sauce to make a kind of sauce paper. When the plain boiled pork was served, the diners would pretend to clean their knives and plates with a piece of sauce paper. This way, the sauce from the paper could be added to the pork, making it much tastier.吃白煮肉不仅在宫里，各王府也有这个习俗，吃不完的肉还分赏给各类下人。乾隆六年，定亲王府有个更夫在府边上缸瓦市开了一家馆子，专门用一口特大砂锅煮白肉卖。他还对传统工艺进行了改良，口味更适合大众，生意特别兴隆。日久天长，食客们就把它叫成“砂锅居”了。这家店沾了王府的牛气，每天只用一头猪，中午之前卖完了就摘掉幌子歇业。于是，北京城多了一句歇后语：“砂锅居的幌子—过午不候。”可惜现在的砂锅居卖的是砂锅白肉，并不见有白煮肉了。Having plain boiled streaky pork was a tradition not only in the imperial palace but also in the residences of princes. If the princes hadn’t finished their pork, they would give the leftover to their servants. In 1741, a watchman from the residence of Prince Ding opened a restaurant by the mansion in the stoneware market. He used a particularly large ceramic pot to boil plain streaky meat for sale. Moreover, he improved the traditional way of meat preparing to cater to the taste of ordinary people. As a result, his restaurant became a big success and over time, diners referred to it as the Ceramic Pot Restaurant. Learning the arrogant style from his boss, the owner would only prepare the meat of one pig each day. If the pork was sold out before noon, he would only remove the signboard and close the restaurant. Thus an allegorical phrase was created in Beijing: the signboard of the Ceramic Pot Restaurant – waiting for no one after mid-day. It’s a pity that nowadays the restaurant serves streaky pork in small ceramic pots only, not the original meat boiled in a large pot.白煮肉在京城已经落地生根，老北京家里到了夏天都要做上几回白煮肉吃。进了伏天，大槐树上的季鸟儿尽情唱着。静谧的四合院里开着窗户的厨房灶台旁，常会见到一个穿着大白背心的老爷们儿慢条斯理地煮着肉，一手摇着蒲扇，一手揭开锅盖。水汽扑面而来，满院子飘散着醇厚的肉香。开满黄花的浓绿丝瓜藤下跳皮筋儿的小女孩欢快地唱着：“打花巴掌儿呔，六月六，老太太爱吃煮白肉……”Boiled streaky pork has taken root in Beijing. During the summer times, native Beijingers would usually have the dish several times at home. In the dog days when birds sing happily in the locust trees, it is a common scene that a man in a white vest is boiling pork patiently in a quiet courtyard. He stands beside the kitchen stove, with the kitchen window open. When he opens the wok cover with one hand and waves his fan with another, the smell of the pork spreads in the yard. Little girls skipping and dancing over chains of rubber bands would sing cheerfully below the deep green loofah vines: 'let’s recite the flower names. On June 6th, old ladies like to eat boiled streaky pork…’民间白煮肉在做法和吃法上和清宫里有了很大差别。一般是把带皮的五花肉洗净了切成大块，皮朝上放进大锅里，加上花椒、大料等调料熬煮。汤始终要咕嘟咕嘟开着，中途不能翻动，也不能添水。直煮到肉九成熟，用筷子一戳能透，用手能捏得动肉皮，就算行了。注意，煮肉的时候，调料里是不放酱油的。Boiled streaky pork is prepared and eaten by the common people in ways very different from that in the Forbidden City back in the Qing dynasty. Streaky meat together with the pigskin is usually washed clean and cut into large pieces. Then the meat is put into a wok with the skin facing upward. Spices like numbing pepper and aniseed are added while the meat is being boiled. The broth must remain boiled, And the meat must not be turned over and water not be added halfway. The pork is ready when it is 90% cooked and can be poked through with a chopstick. At this time the pigskin feels soft when pinched with fingers. Always remember not to add soy sauce when the pork is being boiled.肉煮好了，捞出来晾凉了，切成薄得透明的大片儿，码放在盘子里，蘸上用酱油、蒜泥、葱花、辣椒油和香油勾兑成的料汁，就可以大快朵颐了。醇香的白肉嚼起来酥韧弹牙，筋道的肉皮让牙齿感觉到微微抗拒，反复咀嚼，入口化渣。Then the boiled pork should be taken out of the wok and left to cool before it is cut into large, transparent slices. The pork slices will be arranged nicely on the plate, and served with a sauce made of soy sauce, mashed garlic, chopped scallion pieces, chili oil and sesame oil. Then time to enjoy! The plain pork is tender and mellow, and the pigskin is chewy, inviting you to eat one piece after another. .吃东西讲究吃出本味，嫩而不烂、薄而不碎的白煮肉，质朴而丰美，体现出的况味简单而地道。The Chinese place a lot of emphasis on getting the original taste out of the ingredients when they prepare food. The boiled streaky pork is tender yet not mashed, and thin yet not, minced. Plain and delicious, it features a simple yet genuine flavor.
作者: 崔岱远
出版社: 商务印书馆
出版年: 2014-7
页数: 343
定价: 39.00元
装帧: 精装
