原麦自然香味与香精构建的香味:

原麦自然香味与香精构建的香味:

溯源麦香是尼罗河延伸了发酵麦香,而人类就是一部发酵史。几千年来一直秉承发酵自然原麦的基调,特别是在中东国家、清真民族尤为传统。近代随着食品工业革命的演绎,化学香精、香粉一度填满了人类的食物角落。
我国特别是南方:盛鱼米、而不善面粉,于是各种糕点或者食品就被香精填满了色香。面包、蛋糕、绿豆饼...一口下去、满满的全是重口味的香精、几日都挥之不去。近些年前去江浙、长江以南地区讲课;企业配料室光是琳琅满目的香精、就有几十种。

以烘焙面包蛋糕为主食的欧洲诸国,其工匠严谨秉承的是自然麦香、发酵原味、溯源纯面香;而对于香精、香粉基本不添加;而只是在蛋糕中画龙点睛之甚少、也是为了掩盖鸡蛋的腥味。而我国烘焙市场、香精香粉纷纭而至。不知道南方同仁是否会把香精演绎到米饭、云吞,或者汤内是否也要添加香精?
我们学徒时、一直秉承师傅的糕点糕饼之香要从发酵中来、要从稻香焙艺原麦之香、自然麦香、发面麦香、老面麦香;而非香精香粉浓妆妖艳。最近看大陆市场大师们纷纷软欧热、欧包热、法包热,看其配方上写:蛋奶香精、奶酪香精、水果香精...我想、如果让吃了几百年面包的欧洲师傅,看到如此多香精构建的欧包、洋人肯定要问:O God!这是面包吗?这是软欧吗?这是欧包吗?O God!溯源味道-麦香原味,乃自然之香;烘焙之魂、匠心原味,才是接地气;香精、画龙点睛用之;若追求原麦稻香发酵面香味道,尽可弃之。

匠心原味乃是利用乳酸菌、酵母菌、野生菌、有益菌或者植物中酵素而发酵酝酿,烹饪焙烤来自食物中最原始的自然风味。若发酵茶、咖啡、酸奶、啤酒、干红等发酵美食也全是香精,可想其原味荡然无存之际、是一种什么样子的尴尬。

发酵麦香:

一部发酵史。千年前的尼罗河文明小麦丰腴之后,刀耕火种、便衍生了焙烤之炊-麦香面包。去到埃及、可以在古城墙看到人类雏形,刀耕火种时代的烤面包的图腾;我国汉代记载:炊之为饼(发酵一词最早溯源)。中国的馒头与埃及的面包属于孪生姐妹,不同的是一个蒸、一个烤。几千年的人类发酵,一直以小麦作为主要粮食发酵炊饼-或蒸、或烤、或烧、或煮...面包作为人类新的食品,返璞归真于传统古法、探究、挖掘、改良、发酵最纯真的自然麦香,是未来的必然趋势。从尼罗河流淌出的发酵艺术,跨越伏尔加河、 多瑙河,科罗拉多河,又弥漫回到长江、黄河...只是、人类的焙烤发酵艺术,从来就不曾遥远!

Stay on fermentation:

Coffee, wine, tea, beer, cheese, yogurt, baking and food fermentation industry, such as the ultimate pursuit of flavor or natural fragrance. Across history, human is a history of fermentation. One thousand years ago in the Nile civilization after wheat well-developed, plantation, was derived for cooking - stay of baked bread. Go to Egypt, can see human embryo in the ancient city walls, the totem of the era of slash-and-burn toast; The han dynasty recorded: cook the bread for the earliest source (fermentation). Chinese steamed bread and the bread of Egypt belong to the twins, the difference is a steaming, baking. Thousands of years of human fermentation, has been to wheat as the main food fermentation for cooking bread - or steamed or baked or burning, or cooking... New food bread as human beings, to comfort, exploration, mining, improvement, traditional fermentation is the most pure natural stay, is the inevitable trend of the future. From the Nile flowed out of the fermentation of art, across the volga river, the Danube, the Colorado river, and diffuse back to the Yangtze river and Yellow River... Just, baked fermentation of human art, never far away! {} Mr. Du manuscript

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