游镇远古镇——阿尼亚房车伴我走天涯
镇远古镇地处黔东南苗族侗族自治州,位于舞阳河畔,四周皆山。河水蜿蜒,以"S"形妖娆而过,站在四官殿凭栏远眺,镇远古镇尽收眼底,状如太极。其因优越的地理位置而享有“滇楚锁钥、黔东门户”之称。镇远历史悠久,自秦昭王三十年(公元前277年)设县开始至今已有近2300年的历史,元代、清代为道、府所在地达700多年之久。镇远这座古城,不仅人文古迹众多,而且自然风光旖旎。现遗存有楼、阁、殿、宇、寺、庙、祠、馆等古建筑50余座,古民宅30多座,古码头10多个;古街古巷曲径通幽,石桥城垣错落有致,碧水晨雾姿态万千,春江渔火诗意盎然。晚清爱国名将林则徐,曾三次路经镇远,他在《镇远道中》一诗对这里雄奇的山川和险要的地势描述很有代表性:“两山夹溪溪水恶,一径秋烟凿山脚,行人在山影在溪,此身未坠胆已落”。






















璀灿夜:
我们傍晚时分到达镇远古镇,没找到停车场,就在舞阳文化园旁边的小街道空位处停车过夜,夜幕降临后,我们从民主街道一路散步来到新大桥,观赏镇远璀灿的夜景,哇!这才叫璀灿呢:灯光装点下的河畔建筑与水中的倒影勾勒出一幅完美的图画,夜色中流连着来自四面八方的游客,喧嚣繁杂而又充满活力。河中桥上的古塔在夜色中配合变幻无穷的彩光美轮美奂。在夜色中七彩而柔和的灯光里,我们边走边观望,被这美丽的夜景所吸引,惊呼:太美了!这简直就是灯光的海洋,色彩的世界,这与大城市的灯光秀又有着本质的区别,它的炫烂中夹着泥土的芬芳,它的变幻中流淌着昂然的生气。舞阳河里的粼粼波光,来来往往的游船画舫,老板的吆喝、游客的熙嚷,艺人的演奏,美食的诱惑,所有这些市井的繁闹,才是镇远的生命力之所在。
有人曾吐槽镇远古镇商业气息太浓,我不这样认为,试问:能保留至今的古镇,哪一个不是曾在历史上处于商业的繁荣与辉煌?经济上不繁荣,何来名人眷顾,何来保留至今的古迹?而今天的繁荣,不就是延续着昔日的辉煌?没有了商业繁荣,没有了的游客到来,死气沉沉的景区,还能延续着它的历史?



















和平村:
我们继续漫游古镇,首先沿盘龙街步行至盘龙大桥,然后横跨大桥,来到和平村旧址,这是一个非常值得去的地方,因为它是关押改造日本俘虏的地方。首先心里为之一震,在我从各种电影电视剧的记忆中,抗日战争中是很难抓到日本俘虏的,所以这样的地方作为景点开放让游客参观,十分罕见。“和平村”是国民党政府军政部第二日军俘虏收容所,原镇远总兵署中营衙门。前有巷道,后依五云山,北通卫城。那高大的青砖砌就的大拱门及高围墙,看上去虽然斑驳,却也雄壮。我们凭身份证免费参观。进得门来,首先是一排丙层高的青砖蓝柱的房子,这里就是当年的"新生班"、"研究班"、"所长室"、"中山室"、"会议室",我们从中间空旷的屋子进去,就是一个大礼堂,礼堂大门,有两个哨兵塑像,似乎还在守卫着当年的俘虏。大礼堂是一个大台,台后正面墙上挂着孙中山像及青天白日旗,两边的上下都是床铺,据统计,这里共收容日本俘虏600多人,和平村,它是日本军国主义侵略中国和日本觉醒了的人民爱好和平的历史见证,也是中国人民爱好和平的历史见证。














古民居:
镇远古民居既有江南庭院雕梁画栋的风貌,又有山地建筑高低错落的布局,这种江南与山地的完美结合,使镇远的民居成为中国建筑史上的奇迹。其中“歪门邪道”是镇远的民居建筑中独具特色之处:巷道狭长幽深,而又曲折斜伸,其结构错综复杂,交叉衔连、互相达通的巷子,组成了镇远古城生生相息的血脉。我们就在这石牌坊巷、四方井巷、复兴巷、仁寿巷、冲子巷中穿梭来往、似入迷宫。宅门高大雄浑,其外围常不对称,庭院也是如此,而最具特色的复兴巷内的傅家大院。

























古遗址:
镇远古遗址有楼、阁、殿、宇、寺、庙、祠、馆等古建筑50余座,而我信步镇远古镇,足迹所至,只到了万寿宫、香炉岩、天后宫、古城洹、古码头、四宫殿等遗址,但足够让我领略了古遗址风貌,它们是集成了镇远古镇的历史传统文化的瑰宝。
古井到处都有,形状各异。有的形如猪槽长井,有清澈见底的浅井,也有深达数丈的吊井。较有名的四方井、猪槽井,古井春夏秋冬盛泽不涸。
周达文故居,我本想去参观一下,因为它曾经是中共镇远地下支部旧址,可惜铁将军把门无法入内。


















