旺财作为珠宝从业者里的“小学生”,站在咱买家的角度,有一个特别的事情想跟大家强调,如果大家计划选购一颗彩色宝石,尤其是在预算不是很充裕的情况下,千万不要追着一个宝石卖家问这个问题(尤其是翻来覆去的问):这颗石头干净么?是不是无暇的?很多情况下,过于“执迷”于彩色宝石的净度,很容易激动真正懂宝石的卖家,更重要的是可能会让大家错过很多美丽的宝石。
这是为什么呢?为什么作为宝石卖家会对净度这么敏感?答案就是:净度(宝石内含物)在我们看来是彩色宝石品质指标里最有价值,但最不重要的。说它最有价值,是因为,宝石的内含物是鉴别宝石种类、产地和是否经过优化处理等最重要的因素之一;是大自然赋予每一颗宝石最第一无二的“烙印”;是造就很多宝石独特视觉美感的关键因素;说它最不重要,是因为,在所有的珠宝商眼中,这个世间很难有“完美无瑕”的彩色宝石,尤其是某些种类的彩色宝石,内含物丰富是她们的共性。另外,如果把彩色宝石的品质指标排个队,相比重量、颜色、切工、天然性、产地,旺财会把净度放在最后。对彩色宝石净度的不关注,在佳士得和苏富比两大拍行上体现的淋漓尽致,那些拍出天价的彩色宝石,都不会单独描述宝石的内含物,如果有,也是介绍丰富的包体是如何的美妙。
有人可能会有疑问,旺财你是不是忽悠我们?我可以肯定的告诉大家:“不是”。因为作为全球最顶级的彩色宝石鉴定机构的Gübelin(古柏林宝石学实验室)官网单独有一个版块介绍彩色宝石的内含物,而且在开篇就给内含物进行了定义。(PS:英语好的宝宝可以直接看原文,毕竟旺财水平有限~)
“越纯净,越有价值。”对于钻石来说这句话是真理,但不适用于彩色宝石。作为彩色宝石的部分特征,美丽和个性正是由彩宝的内含物小晶体、颗粒、色带、愈合裂缝或液体内含物组成,是她们让每一颗宝石真正独特。彩色宝石内部深处错综复杂的图案让我们见证了大自然的美妙。彩色宝石内在世界之所以让我们着迷,不仅是因为她们的内在美,还因为内含物像指纹一样,包含着有关宝石的身份信息。正如被称为“现代宝石学之父”的Eduard Josef Gübelin发现的那样,宝石的内含物,而不是瑕疵,可以让受过训练的人了解宝石的起源、年代,甚至提示宝石是否经过人工的优化处理。
“The purer, the more valuable". This saying certainly holds true for diamonds, however not so much for coloured gemstones. Part of their characteristics, beauty and individuality is due to their inclusions – small crystals, particles, colour zones, healing fissures or fluid inclusions that make each stone truly unique. Intricate patterns that remind us of nature's beauty can be found deep within. These inner worlds fascinate us not only because of their inherent beauty, but also because, like fingerprints, they contain information about the gemstone's identity. As Eduard Josef Gübelin discovered, inclusions, rather than being blemishes in the stone, can inform the trained eye about the stone's origin, its age and can even give hints about possible alterations of the stone by treatment.
以液体、气体或固体物质形式存在的宝石包体随着宝石的“生长”在宝石中形成。在某些特殊情况下(主要是由于压力或温度的变化),包体也会在宝石形成后产生或渗入。在不同的宝石优化处理过程中,还会出现其他一些特征性的包体,从而帮助宝石学家鉴别宝石的变化。固态包体可分为三类。原生包体是在寄主晶体形成之前就已形成的矿物,它们在宝石结晶的漫长过程中被“困住”了。通常,不同的矿物在相同的条件下,同时形成,它们可以相互包含,因此是同生包体。由于环境的不同(如宝石所处环境的变化),一些固态包体甚至是在主晶后形成。这些后生包体大多形成于寄主矿物的裂隙内,因此往往由平面晶体组成,与结构良好的同生包裹体在视觉上截然不同。“Inclusions in the form of liquids, gases or solid materials are trapped at any time inside the evolving mineral. Under some special circumstances, mostly due to a change in pressure or temperature, they can also form or infiltrate the mineral after it has formed. Other characteristic inclusions emerge even later during various treatments and thus help gemmologists identify such alterations of the stone. Solid inclusions are divided into three different kinds. Protogenetic inclusions are minerals that have formed before the host crystal. They are trapped during the long process of the gemstone’s crystallisation. Often, different minerals form under the same conditions and at the same time. They can be found included in one another and are therefore syngenetic inclusions. Due to different circumstances, like changes in the environment of a gemstone, some solid inclusions even form after the host crystal. These epigenetic inclusions mostly form within fractures of the host mineral and tend therefore to consist of flat crystals that are visually distinct from the rather well-formed syngenetic inclusions”由于不同地区的环境和地质条件不同,内含物有时差异很大,因此在世界上某些特定地区的宝石中可以发现具有特征性的包体。在世界上最大的宝石参考库帮助下,Gübelin宝石学家可以通过研究其内部世界来确定宝石的起源。包体可以告诉宝石学家关于宝石的起源,寄主岩石地质情况,宝石的产地,有时甚至允许我们确定其形成的确切年代。宝石内部世界的科学重要性是Gübelin长期以来对这些复杂图案着迷的原因之一。当然,这并不是唯一的原因。“Since environmental and geological circumstances differ, sometimes strongly, from region to region, characteristic inclusions can be found in minerals from specific parts of the world. With the help of the world's largest collection of reference stones, Gübelin gemmologists can therefore determine a stone's origin by investigating its inner world. Inclusions tell gemmologists about the genesis of a stone, the geology of the host rock, its geographical origin, and sometimes even allow us to determine the exact age of formation. The scientific importance of a stone's inner world is one of the reasons why Gübelin has long been fascinated by these intricate patterns. However, it is far from the only one”
潜入宝石的深处,可以看到她真实而独特的美。包体形成各种各样的图案,提醒着我们,大自然的无限力量和美妙的魅力。当我们徜徉在一颗珍贵宝石的“内心世界”时,我们会体验到整个宇宙的形态和色彩,这些形态和色彩让我们联想到谦逊之美,并启发我们的设计师将它们镶嵌在珠宝中,让我们体验大自然无限的奇迹。“Diving into a stone's depths reveals its true and unique beauty. Inclusions form various patterns which remind us of nature, its unlimited strength and delicate allure alike. While wandering within the inner world of a precious gemstone, we experience a whole universe of forms and colours that conjure up images of humbling beauty and inspire our designers to mirror them in jewels that recall nature's unlimited wonders。”从地球更多让人充满幻想的地方发现更多有关宝石的信息,体验她们独特的“内心世界”,让每一颗宝石都能成为大自然奇迹。“Discover more about gemstones from the most coveted regions of the earth and experience their unique inner worlds that make each stone a marvel of nature.”
上图中的三相包体,是由气泡、液体和晶体结构组成的包体,均是在宝石生长过程中被“困”于宝石之中。上图中这种包体是典型的哥伦比亚祖母绿内部包体。它们通常在寄主矿物诞生时以含盐液体的纯流体包体开始,当晶体冷却到接近地表的温度时,矿物和气体就从液体中分离出来,从而形成这些复杂的包体组成。“The so-called "three-phase inclusions", as seen below, consist of gas bubbles, liquids and crystalline structures which were all trapped within the growing gemstone. These inclusions are typical in emeralds from Colombia. They often begin as purely fluid inclusions of a salty liquid during the birth of the host mineral. When the crystal cools down to near-surface temperature, minerals and gases separate from the fluid thus forming these intricate patterns”
金红石是一种主要由二氧化钛构成的矿物。它通常以小针状的形态出现在红、蓝宝石等宝石中。金红石针是宝石中一些最受欢迎的光学现象的原因,如“星光效应”、“猫眼效应”等。短而细的金红石针形成的区域、斑块或云,被称为丝绸(丝绒感)。这种特殊的包含物在缅甸红宝石中很典型,而缅甸则是最顶级红宝石的产地。复杂的金红石包体分散了光线,形成柔和的微光,再加上红宝石的荧光特性,使得缅甸红宝石备受追捧。“Rutile is a mineral which is largely made of titanium dioxide. It commonly appears as inclusions within rubies and sapphires in the form of small needles. Rutile needles are responsible for some of the most sought-after optical phenomena in gemstones, like the asterism or star effect, and the cats-eye effect. Short, fine rutile needles which occur in zones, patches or clouds, are called silk. This special kind of inclusion is typical in rubies from Burma, the most coveted region for this gemstone. The intricate inclusions scatter the light and cause a soft glimmer which, in combination with the slightly fluorescent property of the stone, makes the Burmese ruby highly sought after.”
蓝宝石内部丰富的包体,同样可以帮助我们鉴定蓝宝石的来源。虽然这些包体可能出现在克什米尔、斯里兰卡或马达加斯加的蓝宝石中,但精确的观察可以揭示它们形态上的细微差别,有助于确定宝石的来源。上图中显示了一颗产自克什米尔的蓝宝石内的特征包体。“Delicate inclusions, such as pargasite needles, fine dust clouds and crossing dust-tracks can help identify the origin of a sapphire. Although these inclusions can appear in stones from Kashmir, Sri Lanka or Madagascar, precise observations can reveal subtle differences in their pattern and help identifying the gemstone’s origin. This picture shows a precious pargasite crystal inclusion in a magnificent sapphire from Kashmir”